Today I am taking quite the trip down memory lane, not just revisiting a recent trip to the ancient village of Dunster for the benefit of you folk, but taking a walk through somewhere I haven't visited since I was a wee lad - a terrifying number of years ago! I have wonderful memories of Dunster as a kid, even before I developed a passion for the countryside, coast and nature. I have a recollection of a beautiful place, shining sun and a proper quaint village experience - so how does the reality shape up to the memory? Was it all just rose-tinted glasses? On a recent road trip up from Devon and into Bristol, I decided that Dunster would be the perfect stop to get out of the car for an hour or two, stretch our legs for a while and break up a drive. It turns out, I was wrong, but not for the reason you might think...
Getting to Dunster is fairly straightforward: it falls on the north Somerset coast near Minehead, just off the A39. If you're coming from further afield, then taking the M5 to Bridgwater, then heading east is likely your simplest option. As we were coming from Devon, we ended up crossing Exmoor via some beautiful and winding roads, before finding the A396, which passes through the middle of Dunster. Parking is fairly limited; there are a few small car parks dotted around the village, including Park Street car park at the south edge of the village near the packhorse bridge and Dunster Steep car park at the other end of the village, nearest the A39 (where we ended up parking). The best option for parking is right near the castle, but to get there you need to enter the gate outside of Dunster on the A39 here, clearly signposted, but if, like us, you've arrived via Exmoor you might not know it is there! Our visit was on a quiet early June day, so no problems, but Dunster will likely become quite the challenge to park in during peak times, so connecting through via public transport might be better in the height of summer. Speaking of public transport, trains are restricted with no station nearby; the station at Bridgwater or Taunton probably being the closest option, and then buses connecting you the rest of the way.
So our journey started out at the northern edge of Dunster - typically we map out some kind of walking route for these adventures, but considering this is a village chock full of varied landmarks, I would advise you explore at your own discretion. That being said, if you would like a rough order of proceeding then we went with a fairly simple route: Check out the village (it is one street) with the beautiful Yarn Market, head up to Dunster Castle (National Trust operated), head to the south side of the village at the packhorse bridge and then (depending on time allowances) circle back into the village to grab some lunch as you return to the car. This is what we ended up doing, and rather than fully bury the lede, in the intro I alluded to being wrong about something, and that something is this: I grabbed two hours parking, considering it ample to have a wander around the tiny village of Dunster, and THAT is where I went wrong! We were about two-thirds of our way around the castle when I pointed out we had hit the hour and a half mark, and needed to think about heading back. We eventually got back to the car with 5 minutes remaining, so my advice would be if you want to have a casual walk around the village, especially on a sunny day, grab more than two hours...
Back to our journey, you will head along what is basically the main road through Dunster, round the corner, and you will immediately be greeted with a perfect view of the village - the beautiful buildings that flank the road perfectly frame Dunster's Yarn Market, and Dunster Castle peaks out overhead behind a canopy of trees. Let's start with Dunster's Yarn Market; this is a 17th-century Grade I listed building, practically brand new by Dunster standards, likely built to coincide with the development of the castle and the loss of trade from the harbour. The local lords built it to help solidify Dunster's importance as a centre for yarn trade, something it had been known for since before the 13th century. Market centres were often designated by market crosses, Dunster has two: the original market cross moved to the outskirts of the village (The Butter Cross) and, of course, the Yarn Market. The building has undergone revisions over time, although restoration work has since returned it closer to the original design of the Yarn Market. Regardless of the history of the building, the Yarn Market is a beautiful landmark, a monument to Dunster's history, and something that feels so out of place in a modern world, almost plopped in the middle of the road - you can really get a sense of the fact that this village existed so long before the advent of the car, and you can really feel a time when this would have just been the village square.
Progress up what can be thought of as Dunster's high street, perhaps not as sprawling as some modern high streets, but on a quiet summer's day in June this is an incredibly peaceful place to have a potter. We decided to head straight up the hill in front of us and make for the castle, the friendly staff on the gate checking our passes and flagging us in. Dunster Castle has multiple routes via which you can explore the grounds, or head directly into the castle if you wish. We typically prefer to prioritise the grounds, and given how short for time we ended up, I'm glad we did, as Dunster Castle has some absolutely stunning gardens and landscape to explore. The grounds of the castle circle around the hillside on which the castle sits, with so many things to discover as you explore and some beautiful places to snap photos and relax - the defensive position also offers great views all the way out to the coast and beyond. Even if you don't particularly have any interest in history, the castle offers some amazing views, well worth the price of admission!
For those of you interested in a bit of history - here is a brief overview of both Dunster village and Dunster Castle's history. Fortifications at Dunster have existed since the Iron Age, and records of Dunster's existence are documented in the Domesday Book. By the 12th century, the first stone keep was constructed, and some kind of defensive structure has stood there ever since, surviving sieges during the Anarchy and the English Civil War, all while operating as the seat for local Earls and Barons. Dunster Priory, a Benedictine monastery, has stood in the centre of the village since around 1100. The whole village has a deep and interesting history, from castle to coast - Dunster once had a notable harbour along its shoreline before it silted over. Countless historical landmarks are littered around, including: The Yarn Market, Butter Cross, Conygar Tower, Watermill, Dovecote and more (all outlined on the map above for your own personal exploration).
Back to our day out, we passed through the crypt of Dunster Castle, before heading uphill and circling around the east side of the keep and around to the south to enjoy some of the stunning views out over Exmoor. Every corner of the castle grounds has been immaculately maintained, with plenty of benches to rest at. If you visit on a hot day, as we did, prioritise grabbing a drink from the castle before you leave, otherwise, you may end up like us - meandering around the furthest reaches of the grounds, parched, until we stumbled upon a shop to save us! We stopped by many impressive views, as well as the pet cemetery and climbed down into the creepy underground reservoir (especially for Rox, who hates both caves and water, although the reservoir is kept dry these days).
Once we had our fill up top, we left Dunster Castle's upper area and descended towards the river gardens. The path we took saw us snaking down the hillside, crossing a paved road and eventually dropping into the lower woodlands (just beyond the Pixie Well). The River Avill offers a peaceful companion to trek alongside, and before you know it you will arrive at two major landmarks: The Lovers Bridge and the Watermill. These two are both impressive in their own regards; the bridge is a beauty spot begging to be photographed, and the Watermill is such an interesting structure, still active and fully explorable, you can see all the gears and internal mechanisms that make the mill tick!
With the looming spectre of a rapidly running-out parking ticket, we decided we would have to call our adventure around Dunster Castle early, but now, at the bottom of the village, I had one last stop to make that I had a vague memory of from a child. Not too far from Dunster's Watermill is the Gallox packhorse bridge, a stony ford across the River Avill dating from the 13th century, named for the nearby gallows that would have sat on a nearby hillside. The bridge would have been intended to allow traders to come to market from all across Exmoor, but now it acts as a great place from which to extend your Dunster adventures, with the likes of Bat's Castle, Nutcombe Bottom and plenty more to find south of the village. I'm pretty sure a video exists of me somewhere paddling in the river here as a toddler, something I would have quite happily done again today on our exceptionally sunny day.
We circled back through Dunster village via West Street & Church Street, then back to the High Street. This allowed us to enjoy some of the beautiful historic buildings along the way, including St George's Church and the multitude of houses and shops that are all equally beautiful. Unfortunately, our visit to Dunster was coming to an end, but not before grabbing a bite to eat, and for such a small village we sure were spoilt for choice. We opted for The Deli, where we were able to get drinks, cakes and some freshly made cobs - quite literally freshly made, as one of the owners headed upstairs to make them while we waited; this sure as hell beats some pre-packaged meal deal at a service station on the way home! After a hearty cob and a big slice of caramel shortbread, I was stuffed, and after a long walk, these were just the pick-me-up needed. Sadly for us, it was time to leave Dunster...
I'd like to reiterate that I'd recommend a day at Dunster, at a minimum. We got to see many of the major attractions around the village, the stunning Castle and the southern reaches along the river, but I know there are so many great opportunities to explore beyond in Exmoor and down to the coast, many more things to see around the village and so many great places to eat and drink that staying a night could well be worth your time! As a kid, I recall staying right on the coast in a chalet, and Dunster had a beautiful sand beach, and many walks beyond the village out into Exmoor. I have no doubt that, using the places outlined on the map above (perhaps combined with OS maps to find some of the trails into Exmoor), I'm certain you can find a great day out, weekend break or even longer! Or maybe, if like us you only have an hour or two on a grand adventure, you could still take a flying tour around Dunster. Either way, you are sure to fall in love with this picture postcard village.
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